By: Madison Sottile
On May 1, 1963, Jim Whittaker reached the highest point of Mount Everest, becoming the first American to stand at the highest altitude on Earth. Even years later, his passion stayed strong and Whittaker returned to the Mountain at 83 years old alongside his family. Whittaker passed away on Apr. 9, 2026, with a view of the Olympic Mountains in Washington.
Born in Seattle, Washington in 1929, Whittaker discovered his love of climbing at a young age. Him and his twin brother, Lou Whittaker, began scaling mountains after joining Boy Scouts. By 16 years old, both boys had climbed Mount Olympus in Washington State, an almost 8000-foot summit.
Jim Whittaker’s career took him to amazing heights. He was the first full-time paid employee at REI, and served as the President and CEO of the company in the 1970s. He also served as a chairman for Robert F. Kennedy’s presidential campaign, and the pair climbed a 14,000 ft peak in Canada, Mount Kennedy, as a tribute to the late President.
The Mountaineer cemented his name in history when he made the 29,032-foot climb to Everest’s peak. He and Nawang Gombu Sherpa, the first person to make the climb twice, say they almost ran out of oxygen when approaching the peak but instead of turning back, continued upward.
Whittaker displayed a strong love of the outdoors and his community throughout his life. He co-founded a guiding company and testified in congress which helped establish North Cascades National Park and Redwood National Park. His legacy will live on as a true inspiration to adventurers and the idea of perseverance.
